05 on SJB safe SVA modifications
05> SJB safe Mustang SVA modifications
The parts you will need are as follows.
Relays from RS components part Number 353-821 4 off £4.05 each
The bases for the relays RS components part Number 353-944 4 off £2.67 each
1 of RS part number 424-131 din rail 35mm £2.25
Diodes 10 off (can only buy them in that min qty) RS part number 628-9546 £0.05.4p each (total for10 = 54p)
Just go to the RS website to order.
Led side turn signals from Ebay,Halfords etc around £15.
Euro spec taillights,Ebay £150 from Subzero automotive.
enquiries@subzeroautomotive.co.uk
50 metre roll of Red/Black 2 core wire,20 metres of Red wire also from ebay.
Universal fog lamp switch.
One 3 or 4 fuse blade type fuse holder,you only need a 3 but i could only get a 4,and one single blade type fuse holder from Halfords etc.
Lets start at the front indicators/sidelights first and work back to the boot.
Sidelights and side repeators.
You need to connect two core wire(red and black)to each front indicator.Solder and heat shrink the connections or use crimped connectors.
Right front indicator has a three wire connector block were going to tap into this for rear indicators,side repeators and sidelights.
1Black(ground)2Black/pink(side light)3Darkblue/orange(indicator).
The Black goes to the Black ground,the Red goes to the Blue/Orange,this needs to be long enough to run the full length of the car to the boot with a little left to play with,the same goes for the other side. You also need to measure another piece of the twin core wire for your side light feed on both sides.Again Black for ground and the Red to the Black/Pink.
You also need to connect your side turn signals into your new indicator wires at the same time,remove the splashguards from the iside of the front wheel arches and run the wires up throught the inner wings,the drivers side you can run up at the back corner were the main under bonnet loom runs.Use a grommet for one of the small holes you choose on the passenger side.
Left front indicator has a three wire connector block also.
1Black(ground)2Darkgreen(side light)3Grey/Black(indicator).
I used Escort side repeators from the scrap yard for sidelights3 quid and drilled the headlights,fitted the escort bulb holders into universal rubber grommets from halfords to stop them fogging up rather than spending a fortune on the angel eye type headlights.
Also required is a Red live feed wire from the positive battery terminal via a single fuse holder blade type close to the battery run all the way to the boot with enough to play with left over.Run the wire through with the indicator wires.Don’t fit the fuse until all the wiring is completed.
Ensure all wires are well insulated and cannot be chaffed.There is big grommet in at the bottom of the drivers side inner wheel arch we can run all the wires through.Then along the floor with the stock wiring loom and in to the boot.
Rear foglight switch.
For the fog light switch we need to fit it in the dashboard just to the right of the original lights switch as its probably the best place for it.We need another length of 2 core and another length of the single Red connect the brass connection on the rear of it to ground.Run the 2 core and single Red wire cable tied to the other two lots you have run through to the back of the car.Make sure all new wiring is neat and tidy with good insulation and cable tied to the cars original loom at least every six inches.
Thats under the bonnet sorted and inside the car, lets move to the boot and the rear lights.
Relays and diodes.
In the boot we are going to mount the relays using the Din rail.So you need to find a suitable location,I used the right hand side of the spare wheel well as the fuel pump cut out switch was located on the left hand side of it.The relay bases clip on to the Din rail and the relays are push fit in to these bases.You need to mount all 4 side by side on the din rail separate each one by fitting a cable tie in between them.The din rail will need to be cut to size with a little extending beyond the relay bases so you can screw it to the wheel well.Again make sue all the wires can reach this spot and have plenty to play with.As for the diodes, the diodes are to be mounted across the relay coils.They have a silver/gray band at one end and the other end is black.The silver end must be connected to terminal 5 on the relays.The black end goes to terminal 1 on the relays.It is imperative these diode are connected correctly!I.E. the right way round !
So to recap we have 1 single Red and one length of the 2 core wire for the fog light switch,one 2 core from RH front indicator,one 2 core from the LH indicator,and a Red single core 12 volt fused positive feed from the battery.
Also connected into the SAME 1 & 5 terminals on 2 of the relays are the leads from the front indicators. One relay for the right and one for the left indicator cable. IT IS ALSO IMPERATIVE you know which of your two wires in each of the indicator cables is connected to which side of the front indicator bulb.I CANNOT STRESS THIS STRONGLY ENOUGH!Do not guess and think if I get wrong I’ll just reverse the wires TOO LATE SO DOUBLE CHECK!The diode will appear as a short circuit to the SJB and we don’t want to go there!THE POSTIVE"RED"OF THE 2 CORE FROM EACH INDICATOR IS CONNECTED TO TERMINAL 5 ALONG WITH THE DIODES silver end THE GROUND "BLACK" FROM EACH INDICATOR IS CONNECTED TO TERMINAL1 ALONG WITH THE DIODES black end.The diodes therefore are connected across the indicators.
The leads of the diodes will need insulating.Just strip the outer insulation from a peice of wire and slide it up the exposed portions of the diode leads, but making sure the terminal screw clamp down on bare lead. If you have any doubt which wire of the indicator cable goes to what side of the indicator bulbs strip the front wiring out and check!
You should have used two of your four relays now.The other 2 are for the Fog lights and brake lights.The relays we are using have LED indicators built in,so with out connecting the rear lights you can see the relay LED’s flash in time with the front indicators,if all is connected correctly.
We then, use 1 of the relays that are left to give the new 12 volt supply from the cable you’ve run in from the battery to operate the rear brake light bulbs.
Rear brake lights.
You also need to run a two core wire to the rear high level brake light, wired across the bulb wiring just like the front indicators.You can insert this cable into the existing high level brake wiring loom down the boot lid to were the twin core wire form each front indicator is straight in to the boot area R/H side so it meets the relay assemblys,same terminals on the relay for power and earth and the diode.
Rear Foglamps.
You should have the cable that is wired across the fog light switch run to the boot area. As we only want the fog rear fog light on when the lights are on, it’s easiest to use the Brown rear light power from the L/H rear light for the relay 12 volt power supply for these.So the fog light relay pin 1 is connected to ground, and rear fog relay pin 5 is connected to one of the fog switch wires,the other wire from the switch is connected to the Brown from the L/H side tail light (don’t forget the diode across 1 and 5,paying attention to the polarity of the diode AS BEFORE!).If as soon as you switch on the side/parking lights when everything is wired and the rear fog switch indicator light comes on,and doesn’t switch off in either positions of the switch. You need to swap the two leads on the back of the switch over "not the earth,the power in power out"the brass terminal is earth of the switch to ground!
Now use your 12 volt power lead straight from the battery (with a fuse fitted inline at the battery end). This should be at least 1.5mm2 CSA cable this gives at least a 10 amp capability use a 10 amp fuse. DO NOT FIT THE FRONT BATTERY FUSE YET! At the boot end of this cable you want to fit the three way fuse block. All 3 inputs are commoned (linked together) and connected to the main 12volt cable use 5 amp fuses in the multi fuse holder.
Connect a length of wire to each fuse output. Connect two wires to one of the fuse outputs.
The one with two wires coming from it,connect one these wires to pin 3 on the LH indicator relay,the other wire from this double to the RH indicator relay pin 3.
Connect each of the single fuse output wires. One to the Brake relay pin 3 one to the fog light relay pin 3.
Rear light connections:
On the Euro style lights you have three wires on each light cluster to connect to the relays. A Yellow for indicators a Red for stop a Blue for fog.
Connect a wire from pin 4 of the L/H indicator relay to the Yellow wire of the L/H rear light cluster.
Connect a wire from pin 4 of the R/H indicator relay to the Yellow wire of the R/H rear light cluster.
Connect TWO wires from pin 4 of the fog light relay, and then connect these wires one to the R/H Blue fog Light wire, and one to the L/H Blue fog light wire on the rear light clusters.
Connect TWO wires from pin 4 of the brake light relay, and then connect these wires one to the R/H RED brake light wire, and one to the L/H RED brake light wire on the rear light clusters.
Then just plug the new rear lights 6 way connector into the cars original main wiring loom connector from each light. CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS AND CABLE ROUTING to ensure no insulation damage.
Fit the fuses one at a time battery first and test.
Read it a few times its easier to understand it takes around 6 hours start to finish double checking everything. If u want pics just send a pm i will email them to you. As Rob has said do it at your own risk, do it with a mate so you can both double check and you should have no probs.
All the best Darren.
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by Webmaster
A bonnet is a bit of a tight squeeze, but a lot of the other smaller parts I can manage. It's just shipping large, delicate items is always costly and mine always are the ones that get damaged 
So the 'GT500' is on hold at the mo.
If your still there after 14th then definitely!
