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Thread: Tightening bottom pulley

  1. #1
    MOCGB Paid Member Scaf's Avatar
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    Tightening bottom pulley

    My 302 developed a strange noise which turned out to be the alternator - which I have had rebuilt.

    Came to refit it today and the bottom pulley is a little loose.

    I can't get a socket on it as the bolts are too close to the edge and can't get a spanner on them as
    the pulley is a deep aftermarket one. The bolts do have strange cross heads so is there a special tool or does someone have any tips.

    Thanks

    Current Mustang Red 1965 Coupe - Previous Mustangs 2008 S197, 1965 Coupe

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    Guest saleen 192's Avatar
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    Just a thought take the pulley off via center nut then tightern up 3 castle bolts/nuts more access when of car then refit or replace pulley ?
    Upgrades = Saleen supercharger kit with JDM tune, 3.4 pulley ,Keene bell boost a pump, BBK 62mm Twin Throttle body with spacer, EBC drilled vented & grooved discs up front with red stuff pads all round , Boost gauge and fuel psi gauge ,Oil seperator, Extra 5" fans for heat exchanger, 7 row oil cooler , Braided steal brake hoses all round, BMR rear lower control arms. 481Bhp Total. & all the normal refinements you get with a Saleen mustang. production number 192 of 945 for that year.

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    MOCGB Paid Member cobraboy's Avatar
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    Oooh tricky one, you can see where the loose bolts have fretted. There should be a spring washer under the heads really.

    The slots are nothing to do with tightening. You may have to source a stock pulley as I cannot think of a way to tighten them as they are so close.

    Of course this may then give you alignment issues with the other pulleys

    Looking again you may have a go with an inpact wrench and a large flat bit ?

    You can never have enough black under the hood.

  4. #4
    MOCGB Paid Member Scaf's Avatar
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    Mmmm
    Sounds like I would be better off focussed on removing these and replacing with something like this which
    might solve the access issue.

    https://m.summitracing.com/parts/arp-430-6801
    Current Mustang Red 1965 Coupe - Previous Mustangs 2008 S197, 1965 Coupe

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    Guest ALLAN R's Avatar
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    I'm wondering if these are the incorrect bolts. You can get some special bolts with smaller hex heads, but I would replace them with cap head bolts (allen bolts). As said try and remove the pulley with the centre nut,then replace the bolts with lock washers.
    Allan

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    MOCGB Paid Member Scaf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by saleen 192 View Post
    Just a thought take the pulley off via center nut then tightern up 3 castle bolts/nuts more access when of car then refit or replace pulley ?
    I did not realise I could do that, do I literally just have to undo that big centre bolt ?
    Current Mustang Red 1965 Coupe - Previous Mustangs 2008 S197, 1965 Coupe

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    MOCGB Paid Member phil k's Avatar
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    Sam, when I use aluminium pulleys they are supplied with allen head bolts. It's also worth noting that they do not supply, or recommend the use of washers.

    As already mentioned, personally I'd pull the balancer and then remove the pulley. I would not re use those bolts as they are incorrect for the pulley.

    Phil


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    MOCGB Paid Member cobraboy's Avatar
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    Of course - cap head bolts.. doh

    I did mean that the stock bolts had spring washers tho' not the shiny arp

    You can never have enough black under the hood.

  9. #9
    MOCGB Paid Member Scaf's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice guys.

    Couple of questions

    1) does that bolt holding the balancer on have a normal thread ie: anti clockwise to undo or is it reverse threaded
    2) I assume I will need a puller to get the balancer off?

    Why is it no job is ever simple........
    Current Mustang Red 1965 Coupe - Previous Mustangs 2008 S197, 1965 Coupe

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    Smile

    Crows foot spanner
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    MOCGB Paid Member Scaf's Avatar
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    That gave me an idea and I have found this which should help me get them off

    https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/hand...rl&istBid=tztx
    Current Mustang Red 1965 Coupe - Previous Mustangs 2008 S197, 1965 Coupe

  12. #12
    MOCGB Paid Member cobraboy's Avatar
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    Centre bolt will be FT and is RH thread.
    Try a screwdriver on the pulley bolts if loose they may be easy.
    Puller req for balancer.

    You can never have enough black under the hood.

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    Guest ALLAN R's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scaf View Post
    That gave me an idea and I have found this which should help me get them off

    https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/hand...rl&istBid=tztx
    That looks good and is cheap. It is a normal right hand thread bolt in the crank balancer but it is supposed to be done up to about 90ftlbs which will require some effort to remove. Then you may have to pull the balancer off, so I would defo try the crows foot spanner first and get a nice set of cap head bolts.
    Allan

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    MOCGB Paid Member rsk289's Avatar
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    To remove the damper you will need a puller, which you won't be able to get on the damper with the pulley still in place. So you have to remove the pulley first - and if you do remove it... well, job done!
    Removing the pulley also introduces the risk of damaging the oil seal in the timing cover, depending on how long ago it was last removed (amongst other risk factors) - speaking personally, I wouldn't. If you don't know when the timing cover was last removed, I would plan on removing the timing cover and replacing the seal if you decide to remove the damper. That means removing the water pump first, lots of gasket cleaning etc.
    Find a way of removing the existing bolts - any old way, doesn't matter - they look similar to stock, which require a thin-wall socket to remove. If you can find the right size thin-wall, then problem solved - either replace and tighten with a spring washer, or remove and replace with ARP 12-pt headed fasteners. Assuming they're not corroded and stuck in (unlikely if they've worked loose), get them out any old way and replace. If you can get a Dremel etc. in, cut a slot and use a screwdriver, or use a Mole wrench, the Crow's foot posted in the link, whatever.

    Just an extra note - be sure you understand why you might want to use stainless bolts in engine assemblies. Stainless steel work hardens in a way mild steel does not, with possible fractures as a result.
    Last edited by rsk289; 25-03-2017 at 11:42 PM.

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    You can remove the the balancer with two pry bars if you're careful........but yeah, it'll be tight.....like 90lb/ft and loctite covered....will need a decent breaker bar on it

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