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Whats a high stall converter.....and why ?

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    Whats a high stall converter.....and why ?

    Whats a high stall torque converter - I think I know but after all these years would like to be sure..........Is there any point in fitting one for just street use or are they really just for drags..........

    Rather than converting mine to a manual box I am being pursuaded to stick with the auto but go for a performance C4, aftermarket shifter and new torque converter........ Any recommendations on that?

    #2
    I'm afraid it's not as straight forward as that Colin. The most important factor is being honest with yourself about the use of the car. If it's primarily a street driven car you want to keep it drivable but if your going racing every weekend that's a different story.

    This may help you in your selection.

    http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ter/index.html

    Also, why not fil in the card below and have a pro tell you which torque converter you need for YOUR car with YOUR engine. The info that comes back may prove to be very cost effective and invaluble.

    http://www.ultimateconverter.com/detailspec.aspx

    Hope this helps

    Phil


    Classic American Restoration Services
    01992 890969..............07590 431511
    www.totalmustang.co.uk ... www.philsworkshop.co.uk
    https://www.facebook.com/classicamer...rationservices

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      #3
      Originally posted by Raven68 View Post
      Whats a high stall torque converter - I think I know but after all these years would like to be sure..........Is there any point in fitting one for just street use or are they really just for drags..........

      Rather than converting mine to a manual box I am being pursuaded to stick with the auto but go for a performance C4, aftermarket shifter and new torque converter........ Any recommendations on that?
      Easiest way to determine the 'stall' of a torque convertor:
      1. Chock wheels, all brakes on. Put car in forward gear.
      2. Plant the throttle. Watch the rev counter.
      3. Maximum stall speed for your convertor is what you see on the tacho.

      Obviously the higher stall speed will enable a higher rev to be used off the line, so great for use in performance, drags etc, but can get tiresome on the road as the engine always needs that degree of revs to drive properly.

      There are of course degrees of high-stall convertors so you don't need to go from stock straight to a 3,000 rpm one. For road use with the occasional traffic-light drag race you could opt for one of the 'Saturday Night Specials' convertors which will not affect 'normal' driving too much.

      Upgraded C4 is a good idea, but make sure you're happy with the upgrade. A 'Shift Improver Kit' will give you very snappy gearchanges, but keep the automatic facility, whereas a 'Manual Valve Body' will give you just that - total manual without any automatic shifting.

      As has been said, try and work out what will work best with the kind of driving you usually do.

      Be glad to give any advice if you need to call!:)


      www.kitney.biz

      Now on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/pages/Kitney/164518633696729

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        #4
        Good thread I was thinking of posting similar myself, I was considering a manual valve body, but there are no aftermarket shifters available for a FMX :(:(
        www.vikingengineering.co.uk for all your classic car needs

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          #5
          Why not put an overdrive AOD box in it while you're at it Colin and get lots of MPG :)

          http://www.mustangandfords.com/howto...wap/index.html
          1967 White Convertible Auto ...... 1994 to 2004
          2005 Redfire GT Manual......2008 to 2010
          2010 Kona Blue GT Auto ...... 2010 to 2013


          MOCGB #332 since 1994

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            #6
            Really a shift kit will be worth doing over a converter, providing the box in good shape to start with. A mild stall converter like the B&M Torquemaster which stalls at about 2400 will liven the show up a bit without being too mad for the street.

            As ever, proceed with caution as there are a few variations of the C4 to catch you out.

            Once fitted it would be a sin not to try it out on the strip, just in the name of science you understand;)
            Frankenstang™ only available in Kernow

            71-73 Supporters Group

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              #7
              Thanks Surreymustang for the full explanation..........much food for thought and research...........

              SO as I thought a high stall converter will allow you sit (line lock on!) with the revs up high, ready for a quick take-off, but I thought that under normal driving or low throttle / revs it would still drive like a normal auto box, but you are indicating that it actually still needs slightly higher revs to get it going - which is understandable. As you say that could get a bit tiresome (and slightly less fuel efficient)

              Thanks guys for the other links and tips.............good stuff there

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                #8
                A good example is from this weekend was talking to a guy that was running 12 sec quarters in his truck he had a 2500 rpm converter he had fitted which was giving him good lauch but had totally spoiled it as a road truck. As tittle suggests ya car does not move untill it gets to that rpm, that would drive ya mad on road you need to way up what you want car to do. Upgrading the c4 is good idea.
                sigpic

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Geoff Watts View Post
                  Why not put an overdrive AOD box in it while you're at it Colin and get lots of MPG :)
                  This is what helps to work out your choices.... thanks Jonny as well.

                  I'm not bothered about MPG - it cruises lovely at 70 to 80 and I get 22mpg on long trips.

                  The C4 is playing up on engaging third as reported elsewhere on here. Not getting any better. So I was gonna invest the C4 rebuild cost towards a manual conversion kit as I wanted to be more involved with the driving. But without power steering (or a rack n pinion conversion) I'm not going to have a hand free to change gear going round corners ( I know you shouldn't change gears mid-corner as well...!) so the manual conversion, what with rear end gear changes as well was starting to go too far....

                  So I'm sticking with the auto - just need to decide what I want it to do for me..

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                    #10
                    My 2 cents....(not pence, cause I am back in the US!), I thought Ford was sticking 5 speed autos into their new vehicles. Get one from a wrecked Mustang. They will last a long time, get good mpg and there "should" be a electric box out there somewhere that will allow it to work with an older engine control system.

                    C4s are nice, but a 6 speed auto!
                    http://www.zercustoms.com/news/2009-...nsmission.html
                    Last edited by sirmerced; 18-09-2008, 12:47 PM. Reason: Link
                    Yeah, see that Cobra to the left....she used to be mine. Now I have a Honda...No wait! I got rid of that....Now I have a R32! But still I want a Fox body Mustang :-(

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Raven68 View Post
                      I'm not going to have a hand free to change gear going round corners ( I know you shouldn't change gears mid-corner as well...!)
                      No thats a problem I can relate to, takes both hands on the wheel to get around traffic islands so have to shift to second almost immediatley or go around the island in first at stupid rpm, just one of those things, you have to plan all manouvers in advance more so than an modern car.
                      1970 Mach1
                      Cleveland powered bacon finder.

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                        #12
                        Some nonsense being spoken here (second hand knowledge). I used to have autos in my Mustang with the 460. First a stock converter (stalled about 1200-1500 I think) drove fine on the road including long runs and ran easy 12's at the strip on street tyres. Later I got high stall converter (3000) and still drove it on the road and to the strip. No problems. Later still, with the tunnel ram, big cam, gears etc (I was into drag racing once) I had the converter reworked to give about 3500 stall and again, it still drove fine on the street even on long runs. It works like this: in normal use, it all feels fine but when you boot the engine (assuming it makes any power) then the converter acts as a 'weak link' and slippage occurs. Same will happen if you try to go up a hill, more slippage will be evident, but if throttle openings are low then slippage will be minimal. I have also fitted high stall converters for a few friends and they were all happy after and none reported excessive slippage. Everyone here has now switched to 4 speeds though...:D
                        Cheers, Martin
                        sigpic

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                          #13
                          Not only but also...

                          Good idea ( pretty much essential IMHO) to fit a secondary cooler to the transmission, the high stall I fitted to mine (B&M Torkmaster 2400) does get very hot at the RWYBs, even with a secondary cooler.
                          It is said that most autos are killed by excessive heat.
                          Frankenstang™ only available in Kernow

                          71-73 Supporters Group

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                            #14
                            My car has very limited street use. It is set up for bracket racing 1/4 mile. Has stall converter set at 3400 rpm, a 2 step, delay box, and transbrake. Original 5 speed manual transmission was changed for a 4r70w automatic with full manual valve body, transbrake and electronic overdrive.

                            It can be driven around some, but it's uncomfortable (full cage), can longer parallel park (spooled rearend), and noisy as hell.

                            It is said that most autos are killed by excessive heat.
                            +1
                            I also have a secondary transmission oil cooler. Transbrake usage increases transmission oil temp by about 50 degrees F per second, so you have to be very careful with that.
                            Last edited by forensicsteve; 19-09-2008, 07:50 PM.
                            2006 GT, 76mm turbo, built 302 stroker, GM 2 speed powerglide transmission, fuel cell, 9" rear, SPR 127650 cams, 3.50 gears, spool

                            10.0 at 136 mph in 1/4 @ 22 lbs boost, on previous build. Goal: low 9s on present build with 25-27 lbs boost and 300 lbs lighter (90% finished)

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                              #15
                              Yep, agree with both above, extra cooler is a good idea, even on a stock auto IMHO but even more so with a looser converter. Still going to stick with the best converter of all now.... a clutch! Heh heh! Auto boys can't do this
                              :gears
                              Cheers, Martin
                              sigpic

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