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Whats a high stall converter.....and why ?

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    #31
    Um, whatever. Lost interest in autos now so not bothered really.
    This thread has got too far way from Colin's original question already so I'm outa here.
    Cheers, Martin
    Last edited by sportsroof; 27-09-2008, 09:24 AM.
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      #32
      In answer to the thread question. Hi Colin

      No don't bother with converter. Fit a Manual trans and enjoy, fit a 5 speed and get the best of all worlds.
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        #33
        Im in no way an expert on this but I think the problem with a (very) high stall torque converter is more to do with wear and heat.

        Its a bit like riding the clutch in a manual car. If the car isnt driven much in traffic or very many miles a year it would be fine.

        If the car sits in London traffic everyday creeping along it wont do the gearbox much good. Alternatively, if you live in the country and just go for a blast on summer Sundays and like to put your foot down, its probably ok.

        If you like giving it a blast from a standing start the converter will come in handy - if you like spirited driving down winding country lanes the manual will come in handy. (saying that, F1 cars don't have regular clutches and they corner and handle ok :)

        As most Mustangs are not driven much either is going to work ok and a torque converter is easy to change if you dont like it.
        Last edited by physcult; 27-09-2008, 12:38 PM.

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          #34
          Originally posted by ALAN6773 View Post
          In answer to the thread question. Hi Colin

          No don't bother with converter. Fit a Manual trans and enjoy, fit a 5 speed and get the best of all worlds.
          Go along with this, whack a 5 speed in it, fit some decent rear gears so it goes off the line well and can criuse relaxed in the overdriven 5th gear. Go on Colin you know it makes the most sense.

          M1D
          1970 Mach1
          Cleveland powered bacon finder.

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            #35
            Fascinating thread and pretty relevant to me at the moment, Id love to lose my manual for an auto. I think a well build auto is far superior to a manual at the drags and can compensate the lunatic set up required for quick straight line speed when you are on the road!

            aaarrggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhh!

            See, I use a 4.10 and a true trac, and a 500lb clutch. At the track, the 4.10 is actually a 3.9x, unfortunately, it is very much a 4.10 on the road: The inside rear wheel always spins pullin away from junctions making a turn and, the M25 is a f*cking nightmare as I roll along in 3rd at 15 mph. And my knee aches when I get home:o My car runs mid 12s and about 1000 miles per month on the street!

            What yellastang says makes sense and it seems to me if you weigh up the pros and cons of converter size, cam etrc, the biggest issue is HOW streetable do you want your car? Not how high the stall converter should be? Or did I miss something?
            Last edited by Nick F; 29-09-2008, 11:17 AM.
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              #36
              I just read an article in MM&FF where they did identical bolt on mods to a manual and automatic S197.
              The auto was slightly faster that the manual even with the stock converter and it was dead nuts constant unlike the manual. The drivers also preffered the auto as it was easier and less complicated to launch at the tree.
              You even see GT500's getting converted to auto for drag racing over here.

              My SN95 is a manual and great fun. It never goes down the strip (too slow) and suits me fine on the road.
              One day though, I might just turn it into a race car and stop trying to make the flying HGV go faster.
              When that happens, the manual will come out and an auto box will go in :Cowboy

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                #37
                I can see an advantage for autos if you are at a certain level drag racing. Horses for courses and all that.

                I'll still stick with my manual though
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                  #38
                  Going to bring this old thread back to life, I have a 289 running Edelbrock heads/cam and 3.73 rear. Only managing 14.2 at the pod with no wheel spin so I'm looking for a higher stall convertor to get down into the 13's.
                  There is a cheap Hughes on EBay for 177 but that's only stalling at 2000rpm and I reckon 2400 is minimum worth upgrading too, anyone got one ? 24 Spline 10.5" for a 68 ?

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