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How to: Halfshaft oil seal change.

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    How to: Halfshaft oil seal change.

    The other week I noticed that both my rear halfshaft oil seals had a small leak, today I changed them both so thought I would do a little write up on it. Iím not going to list every last detail as I am sure most of you are capable of jacking up your car.
    Anyway, this is how I did it.
    Tools: Socket set, 8mm spanner, magnet. Torque wrench , hammer, chisel, seal removing tool
    • Jack up car and remove rear wheels
    • Remove brake caliper, mount bracket, brake disc, ABS sensor
    • Remove diff cover and drain oil
    • Remove 8mm securing bolt and remove halfshaft retaining shaft thingy!
    • Push halfshaft from hub end inwards, remove C-clip from end of halfshaft
    • Pull out halfshafts
    • Remove old seal (I found giving it a tap, on the outer edge, with a hammer and chisel helped to loosen it up) and fit new one, tap it in with a hammer and something flat.
    • Lubricate seal with a drop of oil, slide in halfshafts.
    • Fit C-clips and retaining shaft thingy. Put a blob of Loctite on the fixing bolt.
    • Clean diff cover, fit new gasket and bolt into place.
    • Refit brake parts
    • Fill diff with fresh oil, making sure you pour plenty down you sleeve at the same time!
    • Test drive to make sure there are no leaks.
    I would recommend that you use the genuine Ford seal as its more substantial and comes pre lubricated and with some sealing jollop on it already.
    I have omitted torque settings as apart from the wheels I didnít use any!!
    You can buy various different oils for your axle and you may need to buy a small bottle of friction modifier, I bought an oil which has this modifier already added to the oil, so it wasnít necessary in my case. I have to say I was somewhat surprised that the oil was a bright blue colour and somehow managed to be sticky and slippery at the same time.
    All in all quite an easy job to do, although I would like to point out that the ABS sensors can be a bit stubborn so take care. I found soaking them in WD40 (or whatever you prefer) and twisting them free seemed to do the trick.
    It would also be a good idea to buy some sort of pump to transfer the oil into the diff as there isnít much room to get a bottle up there. It will also saves pouring some of it up/down your sleeve, mind you it makes a great moisturiser when washing your hands!
    Thatís about it, hope it makes sense and helps someone out.




    1966 Coupe: 1995-
    1966 Land Rover Series 2a: 2012-
    2005 Mustang GT 2014-
    2007 California Special Replica: 2010-2014

    #2
    1 by Human Fly, on Flickr
    Brake dust and axle oil!
    2 by Human Fly, on Flickr
    Difference between Genuine and quality aftermarket seals
    3 by Human Fly, on Flickr
    Parts needed. Only need two seals, not all four (I bought some spares)

    1966 Coupe: 1995-
    1966 Land Rover Series 2a: 2012-
    2005 Mustang GT 2014-
    2007 California Special Replica: 2010-2014

    Comment


      #3
      4 by Human Fly, on Flickr
      Remove brake parts.
      5 by Human Fly, on Flickr
      Remove retaining shaft thingy!
      6 by Human Fly, on Flickr
      Remove C-clip
      7 by Human Fly, on Flickr
      Remove halfshaft

      1966 Coupe: 1995-
      1966 Land Rover Series 2a: 2012-
      2005 Mustang GT 2014-
      2007 California Special Replica: 2010-2014

      Comment


        #4
        8 by Human Fly, on Flickr
        Remove old seal with seal removing tool
        9 by Human Fly, on Flickr
        Fit and lube new seal.
        10 by Human Fly, on Flickr
        Refit halfshafts and C-clips.
        11 by Human Fly, on Flickr
        Retaining shaft thingy!
        12 by Human Fly, on Flickr
        Refit shaft and fixing bolt.
        Refit all other parts and refill with oil.
        Job done!

        1966 Coupe: 1995-
        1966 Land Rover Series 2a: 2012-
        2005 Mustang GT 2014-
        2007 California Special Replica: 2010-2014

        Comment


          #5
          Fantastic write up mate! I really appreciate it when people take the time to document and photograph what they have done. When youíre covered in oil, working away or maybe a little stressed it is a pain to get the camera out.

          Thanks!

          Comment


            #6
            It was a pain getting the oil off the camera! Anyway, you're welcome.
            Last edited by Anaconda; 16-06-2019, 01:42 PM.

            1966 Coupe: 1995-
            1966 Land Rover Series 2a: 2012-
            2005 Mustang GT 2014-
            2007 California Special Replica: 2010-2014

            Comment


              #7
              I did the rear wheel bearings on my SN95 the other week and it's an identical process to your S197.One thing I would recommend is getting a new cross pin bolt (see "Retaining shaft thingy!" pic) as if they are tight the head of the bolt is easily damaged.If removing the bearings this bit of kit came in very useful :) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WM-Tool-R...r/273700542596

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by wrooty View Post
                Fantastic write up mate! I really appreciate it when people take the time to document and photograph what they have done. When youíre covered in oil, working away or maybe a little stressed it is a pain to get the camera out.

                Thanks!
                Another vote here, thanks v much for the entire presentation.
                Chris
                2005 Mustang GT Convertible
                1971 Triumph TR6

                Comment

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