Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Axle shaft bearing and seal - where to get them fitted in Shropshire or West midlands

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Axle shaft bearing and seal - where to get them fitted in Shropshire or West midlands

    My car has suddenly developed a vibration from even low speeds.which is less under load than when cruising or decelerating. It is through the seat and soul of the feet, not on the steering or when applying the brakes. I checked the prop shaft and joints at both ends felt sound. Nosing around the rear and I think I've highlighted the culprit but quite why both wheels are suddenly affected at the same time is a mystery to me. There were traces of axle oil in the base rim of the drums. I cleaned the wheel and drum mating surfaces thoroughly and refitted the wheel. Both wheels rotate freely without any roughness or noise but they can both be rocked on the hub in one orientation; across an axis. So, I recon this wheel movement at one point on the wheel rotation both sides is probably causing the noise and vibration. The noise is similar to that of a loose wheel moving on the studs. So, it looks from the oil trace in my drums and the movement that I'm going to need to have the axle bearings and seals replaced.

    Two questions, is there anything I could be missing in my diagnosis? Second up does anyone know of a good repair shop in Shropshire or the West Mids where I could turn up with my two axle shafts and say swap out these bearings and retainers rather than employ a garage to do the full strip down and rebuild job?
    Last edited by rider; 17-06-2019, 09:38 PM.

    #2
    Do they have the bearing pressed onto the halfshaft, any local garage should be able to remove and refit them for you.

    1966 Coupe: 1995-
    1966 Land Rover Series 2a: 2012-
    2005 Mustang GT 2014-
    2007 California Special Replica: 2010-2014

    Comment


      #3
      HTML Code:
      [HTML]Do they have the bearing pressed onto the halfshaft, any local garage should be able to remove and refit them for you
      [/HTML]

      Agree if you can take out any garage with right press can do this as you will be removing half shafts i take it you will be removing diff cover ? you can check inner bearing and diff at same time
      or if you are feeling brave ? and want to save labour charges buy a bearing press you can buy a lomg reach bearing press from 85pounds upwards and do yourself ??? just depends on garage rates but just a thought, have fun

      you can buy all the parts you need from rockauto as well i have replaced half shafts and bearing and seals on my trans am it's not a difficult job,
      sigpicUpgrades = Saleen supercharger kit with JDM tune, 3.4 pulley ,Keene bell boost a pump, BBK 62mm Twin Throttle body with spacer, EBC drilled vented & grooved discs up front with red stuff pads all round , Boost gauge and fuel psi gauge ,Oil seperator, Extra 5" fans for heat exchanger, 7 row oil cooler , Braided steal brake hoses all round, BMR rear lower control arms. 481Bhp Total. & all the normal refinements you get with a Saleen mustang. production number 192 of 945 for that year.

      Comment


        #4
        First off there is no way that the rear wheels should be able to be rocked on the axle. It sounds as if something is amiss or the halfshaft bearings have broken up. If axle oil is present in the wheel hub then the halfshaft axle seal has failed also. What often happens is that the bearing fails and then the seal. It is quite easy to remove the halfshafts. First remove the road wheel and brake drum then the four bolts on the backplate of the brake. The halfshafts will then just pull out. If they don't put the brake drum on the wrong way around and tap it with a hide or lead mallet and the halfshaft will pull out with the bearing on it. As Anaconda says any decent garage can press off the old bearing and press a new one on. The oil seal is in the axle just behind the bearing and needs to be pulled out and replaced. Quite an easy job.
        If you have vibrations I would carefully check each tyre for blisters or delaminating. BF Goodrich tyres are prone to this but other makes of tyre, especially if they are old can also delaminate and go out of round.
        Allan

        Comment


          #5
          Wheel bearing noise won't care if you're accelerating or decelerating, you can change the tone by side loading on bends. If you can feel a vibration in the car as has been said look very closely at the tyre.

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks all for the input.

            The diff is full of oil as I changed it last year and checked it when I did its annual inspection 2 months ago and it was still full with clean oil. Maybe it just didn't like the oil change? Talked with my usual garage and he recons he has enough height on his press to fit the new bearing and retainer ring so I've ordered the parts in from the US. This is my 6th parts order for the Mustang in about a month. Tomorrow I'll do a front to rear wheel swap just to confirm its not the wheels causing the problem but I'm not expecting that it is as I extended my fingers onto the drum while rocking the wheel and they looked and felt to rock as one. Thankfully the car isn't a regular driver so I can wait the up to 3 weeks for delivery.of the parts.

            For anyone looking for a parts list for a rear bearing and seal renewal these are the parts I'm buying in for my 8" axle.
            TIMKEN RW207CCRA wheel bearing - comes with retaining ring
            TIMKEN 51322 axle shaft seal
            FEL-PRO 4828 Brake Backing Plate Gasket
            FEL-PRO 55001 Axle Shaft Flange Gasket

            Comment


              #7
              Bit of a coincidence to have both rear wheel bearings go at the same time...

              I had to do this on one side a couple of years back whilst on holiday in France. Got a bearing, retainer and seal sent out to me and found a small Renault garage in the village who pressed (or chiselled, who knows?) the old retainer and bearing off and pressed the new one on, would only take 5 for doing it. We did the whole thing by sign language...

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by rsk289 View Post
                Bit of a coincidence to have both rear wheel bearings go at the same time....
                That is what I was thinking. Hopefully new bearings will fix it, I won't get to look at the current setup until I pull the shafts which I'm planning on leaving till the new bearings are over for the US just in case I need to move the car off the ramp for another one.

                I didn't swap the wheels today. Took one rear off again and also removed the drum, then bolted the wheel straight onto the hub. There was still plenty of movement. Took the wheel off and then bolted the drum on the wrong way around, still plenty of movement. Then removed the drum and rocked the shaft by rocking the studs and still plenty of movement.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Usually when the bearing has gone this bad the drum can end up running on the brake shoes and it all gets rather hot. I am wondering if the flange on the end of the halfshaft has come loose. I would pull the shaft and check.
                  Allan

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by rider View Post

                    That is what I was thinking. Hopefully new bearings will fix it, I won't get to look at the current setup until I pull the shafts which I'm planning on leaving till the new bearings are over for the US just in case I need to move the car off the ramp for another one.
                    When my bearing failed in France, the O/S rear bearing had been grumbling for 10 or so miles on the Autoroute just as we reached our accommodation, so I jacked up the car, undid the four retaining plate bolts and used the reversed drum as a slide hammer, loosely mounted to the wheel studs. The plate had only moved a little bit, but there was a dribble of water from behind it - not a good sign - and as it moved a little more, bits of ballrace cage fell out and I could see the balls had all slid round to the bottom of the halfshaft. We were obviously not going anywhere now on this bearing so waiting for parts before examining is not a bad idea! I don't think it would have safely limped all the way home with the graunchy bearing, but it least it was mobile before.

                    I think this is yet another example of 'racing' parts not being the best choice for a road car. The rear axle is a Currie 9", warranted to cope with some ridiculous torque figure which I'll never get close to - but there were no gaskets behind the retainer plates. This is presumably because a race car gets stripped frequently for component checks, but my car had done 25,000 road miles at this point and it never occurred to me to check this area. It has gaskets now.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Got to love these old cars. Took the drive shafts out today (no gasket behind the plate on either side) as the bearings and seals and gaskets arrived from the USA, in record time! The passenger side bearing is so loose on its seating, rocks a good 2mm at the shaft face compared to the axle seating. The driver side bearing had spun out all its grease.and had some movement. Then onto the oil seals, tried some bearing pullers on them with a spanned rested across the opening to screw down onto but nothing budging. Tried taking a screwdriver to it to dimple it down from the top but its just getting mangled. There is what looks like ancient rock hard sealant around the seal which is probably what is causing me grief. I have a professional mechanic matey coming across tomorrow to hopefully beat them into submission.

                      The Timken bearing looks similar to the bearings on the shaft but the Timken retainers are puny by comparison to the ones currently fitted. I'll take the shafts and new bearings off to the local garage tomorrow to see if they can do the change over.

                      FOOTNOTE:
                      Couldn't wait so battered the hell out of the oil seals and finally managed to prise them out. Two different kind of seals. The one that was weeping oil was like the new Timken seal I have as a replacement. The other side which had no seepage was really well made and took a severe beating before giving up. It was a leather seal with a rubber lip. Looked a really nice old type seal which is probably why it was still working well.

                      The local garage has a voice recording saying gone on holiday till some time in July. So I've drilled and chiseled off the lock rings and will be taking the drive shafts around to mechanic mateys to use his press to see if we can swap the bearings over there. It'll come down to is there enough height to accommodate the shaft in his press.

                      Last edited by rider; 21-06-2019, 03:39 PM.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Update on this is that new bearings in and there is still some play at the wheels. Not anywhere near as much but still some movement on the rear wheels. So that has me thinking maybe the diff end roller bearings have some wear. Test drove the car and the noise is less but the vibration is still there. So off has come the propshaft and there is play in the transmission joint and a bit of stiffness in the axle joint. The transmission uj has a grease nipple but there is no way that could be greased with the shaft on the vehicle. New uj's are being fitted tomorrow and hopefully I'll find time to put the shaft back on a see if that has sorted the vibration out.

                        I did try to relieve the prop of its uj's on my vice but they weren't budging so I have had to drop it off at mechanic mateys for him to press them out.I'll get to see the state the old joints and needle bearings are in tomorrow. If this doesn't sort the vibration then its onto the gearbox mount.
                        Last edited by rider; 29-06-2019, 03:24 PM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          My driveline vibration was caused by the tailshaft bushing in the back of the trans having worn, a new bushing and seal cured it. Both came from Hauser Racing in the UK.
                          sigpic
                          You can never have enough black under the hood.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by cobraboy View Post
                            My driveline vibration was caused by the tailshaft bushing in the back of the trans having worn, a new bushing and seal cured it. Both came from Hauser Racing in the UK.
                            I'd hope that's not my problem as the C4 had a 2k overhaul 1,000 miles ago.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Inspected to two uj's today and the axle one looked pretty much new but the transmission end was completely shot. Whoever did the uj's last time only bothered changing one and the one who did the transmission end last time it was done put the uj in the wrong way around so there was no way to get close to the grease nipple without actually pulling the propshaft. Quick test drive and there is still a thump coming through the floor so it is onto the gearbox mount next. Maybe that got torn when the engine mounts were replaced. I've checked all the bolts on the mounting bracket and they are all tight. At least chasing this fault the bits that needed done are being done so there have been no pointless jobs so far.

                              No hint of clunks going from drive to reverse now with the new u/j's.


                              Click image for larger version  Name:	20190629_121632.jpg Views:	0 Size:	102.4 KB ID:	1234527

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X