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Can I get main shells changed with crank in? Read before Judge

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    Can I get main shells changed with crank in? Read before Judge

    Worst nightmare. Was told when car went back for transmission rebuild v shortly after buying that the low oil pressure was gauge in dash. 69 convertible with 351c. However never fully made sense so put manual gauge on and it is low barely 5 at idle and 22 ish on motorway. Change oil and filter yesterday. 20/50 classic and didnít see any bearing material in bottom of oil. But tested yesterday and press bit better but still not good enough really. Dropped oil today in prep for pump check. Shiny xxxx in bottom of oil many tiny fragments of bearing material!! I want to leave for NŁrburgring in 6 days time. Whatever I do wonít be perfect but the trip is for a dying best friend so donít judge. Can I replace mains and big ends with engine and crank in still. Iíve done this before on a Ford colongne V6 and a 7.5 ton Leyland lorry. But whatís the configuration of the tabs on shells. Ie can you slide them round crank into position.
    Or do I give in and take engine out which is most likely to succeed all round. I have full day today depending on vet call outs and happy to work all hours this week assuming can get bits.
    Go Brain Trust
    Attached Files

    #2
    Yes you can. Real steel do a high volume/pressure pump as well for 60 quid if you feel like a punt and it isn't knocking it's socks off.

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      #3
      Yes it can be done. Did it few times when desperate to race and already entered (£300-£400 tied up there) so had to be done. Steering and cross member have to come down then starter and sump. You can make up a little gizmo out of wire to push the shells out of the main housings in the block, Rods are easy anyway. After years of struggling with the Cleveland oiling system in racing, finally found the truth. Hope you get it sorted in time. Oh, and HV oil pump may be the worst thing you could do.
      Cheers, Martin
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        #4
        The answer is yes you can do. However reading your post and reason for wanting to do this, is it wise?

        There is a strong chance of the engine failing on the road to your destination, what would the plan then be. If you can get the parts, drop the engine and do the job correctly, this will give you a much better chance of doing this lovely thing for your best friend.

        I hope it works out for you and your friend, the biggest problem will be begetting the crankshaft ground quickly, if you get the parts in time..

        A high pressure pump is a good upgrade.

        Fingers crossed, Ian

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          #5
          All out and ďmachinedĒ with emery paper. Bits come to day from real steel great service. The high volume pump would have been my choice but they said no. The debate continues!! Used 2 strips of ally one to start bearing moving other to go round back and push all way out.
          Grinding crank is limiting step time wise.
          Miserable job though
          Thanks

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            #6
            Well done for tackling that job under the circumstances. I too would have stayed with a standard oil pump, its the tolerance around the shells that provide most of the oil pressure.
            What did the shells and big ends look like?
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              #7
              Yep, listen to Martin / sportsroof on that one!
              1966 Mustang Hardtop - Trans-Am tribute in the making..
              1962 Chevy C-20 Fleetside
              1987 Peugeot 205 GTi track toy
              1974 Ford Econoline E100

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                #8
                I had this same problem many years ago with my 351c with similar pressure numbers. It would be about 25psi when cruising but jump to 35psi when coasting. Weirdest phenomenon I've ever seen. I pulled oil pan to investigate, removed main and rod caps but saw no serious wear that would explain the low pressure. I installed a high volume pump and it helped raise pressure by about 10psi across the board but was still never over 45psi cold with 20w50 oil. It lasted another year until one day the pressure started acting erratic and the engine went south fast. After pulling it to bits I discovered that the crank had broken at the #2 main and the camshaft bearings #2,3 and 4 were nothing but steel and had no lead on them at all. Just the bare steel shells. An old machinist in the states told me that he had seen several instances where the engine had been overheated in the past and the cam bearings delaminate because they have no direct cooling and take a beating. The excess clearance bleeds off all of the oil pressure to the main bearings and lifters. I know when I bought my car that it had no thermostat installed and the radiator would not properly cool the car. Evidently they had cooling problems before I purchased it back in 1995. When I had the pan off I would have never been able to tell without specifically looking at the cam bearings and if they had excess clearance/play. Just something to take a look at while your oil pan is off.
                Last edited by MeZapU; 09-07-2019, 07:59 PM.
                Black 1985 GT, 408w, high 10's
                Red 1988 Coupe, 5.0, Survivor car
                Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
                Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
                White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI

                Comment


                  #9
                  Kudos to making this effort for your friend. I am sure he appreciates it
                  Please visit our Classic Mustang for sale site: www.classicamericancarsales.co.uk
                  We stock a large selection of freshly imported Classic 1960s Mustangs. Fastbacks, Convertibles and Coupes. Cars are in stock in the Southeast of England with more shipping from the USA at all times. Other interesting American cars also stocked. CSRP disk brake setups sold

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                    #10
                    Yes, miserable job as you say with engine in situ, but should be ok. Make sure you have recovery insurance in place ! In my student days with a Vitesse convertible I suddenly had knocking big ends coming home one Friday afternoon. Got new shells next morning & fitted in the afternoon, back to Uni on Monday morning. The car did about 30k miles after that before I p/xd it for a TR4A, with no engine problems at all ! Agree with Martin's oil pump comment.
                    Last edited by superaquarama; 11-07-2019, 11:35 PM.

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                      #11
                      On my old original engine had oil pump failure, the gauze on original pick up pulled away from centre and let the tiniest bit of gasket into pump which locked pump and snapped drive shaft. Did all shells on drive no problem. Got nylon block and machined good portion down into wide flat strip that you could tap to push shells round.
                      obviously I checked crank for scoring and damage with old shells removed and if you see any damage you know stop and pull it out.
                      This engine ran for further 10 years without any issues only 289 and still ran 14.25 quarter mile when playing.
                      As others state on here DO NOT USE HV OIL PUMP.
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                        #12
                        "DO NOT USE HV OIL PUMP."
                        Why ?

                        Best wishes

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                          #13
                          This explains is quite well.

                          http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/...d=91/prd91.htm
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                            #14
                            And think ends that fact straight away.
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                              #15
                              As already said snapped drive shaft with tiniest bit of contamination, and those only part of the story.
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