Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

UK headlights for 1965 recommendations

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    UK headlights for 1965 recommendations

    Hello,

    I need to replace the stock sealed headlights on my 65 Mustang due to blown bulbs.

    I would ideally like a headlight that is very bright, but still have a yellow vintage look. (I do not want the white xenon LED lights that modern cars have)


    #2
    The company that shipped my car to the UK and carried out the MOT installed these (photos coming).
    Attached Files
    We never seem to have enough time to "do it right". But we always seem to have enough time to "do it again"!

    Comment


      #3
      I also installed a more robust power source for my headlights with relays to save the original headlight switch.
      We never seem to have enough time to "do it right". But we always seem to have enough time to "do it again"!

      Comment


        #5
        Yes, those lights that Coop suggests should be fine, any motor factor should have them as they're the same as Land Rovers etc. - our Defender's lights are excellent.

        Not sure about a relay - I'd have thought halogens would actually take less current than the originals, but could be wrong. I don't have a relay and it seems fine, but did have the switch to fail with the original headlights - fortunately my car has foglights so was able to limp along the last few miles home. Another thing I did was use ones with sidelights built in, allowing the use of the original amber sidelights too, which I've always liked as being distinctly American !
        Last edited by superaquarama; 21-08-2019, 01:10 AM.

        Comment


          #6
          Yes, I don't think halogen lights use any more power than the original sealed beams. I thought at the time that I might want to upgrade the lighting in future and the 50-year-old light switch might need some assistance so I fitted the relays. It is worth noting that the light switch carries the full current to the headlights in the original Ford design for the older cars. Just be aware that upgrading the lights to higher power will stress the switch with higher current unless wiring modifications are carried out.

          Here is some interesting background information... Headlight bulbs - H4_9003 - JCM.pdf
          Last edited by JCMaunder; 21-08-2019, 09:27 AM. Reason: Added attached file
          We never seem to have enough time to "do it right". But we always seem to have enough time to "do it again"!

          Comment


            #7
            Yep same as Mini / Land Rover etc.

            Bought mine from Mini Spares in London:

            http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Electrics/Lamps/Headlamps/S4698B.aspx?090904&ReturnUrl=/shop/classic/Electrics.aspx|Back%20to%20shop

            Fitted relays as otherwise the trips the circuit breaker in the switch.

            I might be wrong but I think the original sealed units in the 60s were 40W, even modern sealed units are 50/55W such as these:

            https://www.drakeautomotivegroup.com...o-c0dz-13007-a

            So the Halogen unit above being 55/60W seems to overload the switch.

            '99 Bright Atlantic Blue Convertible (Stock) & '67 Acapulco Blue Fastback (393 Stroker)
            http://www.67mustang.co.uk

            Comment


              #8
              Madness not to fit a relay!
              www.stsimports.co.uk
              www.classicamericancarsales.co.uk

              Comment


                #9
                Could someone explain why a relay is suggested? Where would I install the relay?

                Comment


                  #10
                  The original dashboard light switches and associated circuitry for the old Mustangs are designed so the switch itself supports (carries) the full current for the headlights and, as a result, the switch is prone to failure from age and overloading. This is a particular problem if you are modifying/upgrading your lights and they draw even more current than the originals. In this case, the switch is very likely to fail with potential overheating issues and even fire! This is why fitting a relay circuit is such a good idea.

                  The relay circuit removes the headlight load from both the dash switch and the high/low beam foot switch and instead all the dash switch needs to do is operate a relay (a very small electrical load). The relays are appropriately rated and now carry the burden of the headlight load. The relays (one for the low beams and one for the high beams) would need to be inserted between the high/low beam foot switch and the headlights (usually in the engine bay)... so the switch operates the relays. A new, appropriately sized and fused electrical supply (usually directly from the battery) is now used via the relay contacts (these are just a form of switch too) to power the lights themselves. It sounds complicated but it really is not. Think of it like this... a relay is just a large switch controlled by a small switch. You are inserting a suitably sized powerful switch (the relay) controlled by a small switch (your original dash switch). The only current now passing through the dash switch is that for the rear lights, the instruments and the relay (either low beam or high beam whichever is selected).

                  I hope that helps and does not cause more confusion!
                  Last edited by JCMaunder; 24-09-2019, 02:23 PM.
                  We never seem to have enough time to "do it right". But we always seem to have enough time to "do it again"!

                  Comment


                    #11
                    I agree with everything John says but I have also read on some US forums that the headlight switch has thermal cutout built into it so if there are any issues with the lights or light circuit the cutout will actuate before a wiring issue or fire. When some people have upgraded their lights without using relays they have the symptom of the lights switching on and off by themselves as the thermal cutout switches.

                    I agree its a good thing to upgrade the lights as my Mustang with 7 inch sealed beams might as well have two candles compared to some of these super bright lights on German cars. Quite why they have to be bright enough to give me a sun tan is a mystery.
                    Allan

                    Comment


                      #12
                      Thanks Allan... have missed you recently! Did you take a break?

                      Anyway, this website (http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t...light-switches) provides a bit more information about the thermal circuit breaker (cut out) that Allan mentions above. Yes, they are designed to protect against overheating. However, after 50 years of service, they can fail to do their job. What I don't know is whether the specifications for the new/replacement light switches provide the same level of protection or if they are better than original.

                      Here is a pretty clear wiring diagram for adding relay circuitry... https://audi.humanspeakers.com/headlight-simple.htm

                      Keep in mind that the stock wire colours may differ on your car.
                      Last edited by JCMaunder; 25-09-2019, 07:50 AM. Reason: Added link for wiring diagram.
                      We never seem to have enough time to "do it right". But we always seem to have enough time to "do it again"!

                      Comment


                        #13
                        Hi John,

                        Yes I was away on the outer Hebrides for a week plus I've been leaving the computer alone a bit recently. You can bet your life that the new far eastern made light switches won't be that well calibrated with respect to the thermal cut out. Some will work some won't. I've not had to "fix" the headlights on mine since it was converted back in 1992. That's a nice diagram and maybe I should make up a nice relay box to mount by the alternator regulator.
                        Allan

                        Comment


                          #14
                          I changed mine to Tungsten Halogen headlights for a Mini with integral side lights and removable lamps. I bought a relay set off e-bay which I concealed in a black plastic box down by the requlator and wired them into the existing loom. You'd never know. I can provide more details if you're interested
                          2011 3.7 V6 Premium Convertible
                          1965 289 V8 Coupe

                          Kent Area Secretary

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X