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    Full suspension bush renewal

    I'm planning to refresh all the rubber bushes throughout the front and rear suspension of my '67. I have access to good workshop facilities so doing the work won't be a problem. However, I have some questions that I hope others who have done this job will be able to help with.

    Firstly, I'm not sure whether to go urethane bushes or stick with standard rubber type. This is just a street driven car and I want to preserve a decent ride quality, but I like the idea of the better control of geometry of the urethane bushes. Does anyone have any experience to compare the two types?

    Secondly I want to retain as much of the original steel components as possible. What I mean is that I don't want to simply replace the upper - and particularly lower - control arm assemblies as a whole just because it's the easy option. I'd rather install new bushes in the original arms (assuming they're in good condition). But I can't find a definitive explanation of how to install the LCA bushes (either rubber or urethane) and so it's not clear to me what the snags might be. Again - anyone got any information?

    I know that it's not recommended to replace the front tie rod bushes with urethane so I will be sticking to standard rubber for these. In addition to these changes I will also be doing the UCA 'shelby' drop and possibly adding some 600lb front springs (not sure on that one yet).

    Any comments or guidance much appreciated.

    Thanks

    David

    #2
    Actually there aren't that many rubber bushes in the front suspension and only the tie rod and inner LCA bushes could affect geometry. Firstly you have the two main anti roll bar bushes and the two end link assemblies. I did these in urethane on my car and then changed them back to rubber as they squeaked all the time and you have to grease them about every three months to try and keep them quiet, so I would recommend staying rubber here. As you say in the tie rods some people in the USA say they have had tie rod failures with the hard bushes so again I would stay rubber. On the suspension assembly itself there is a rubber insulator bush between the spring and inner wing, the spring perch bracket itself and the inner metalastic bush on the LCA. Spring perch brackets are sold as a unit and also I don't think I have ever seen the LCA inner bush sold separately, it is normal to swap the whole arm. The UCA shaft runs on threads it does not have any rubber. The only other things are the ball joints and the best on the market here are the Moog joints.
    Allan

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      #3
      Thanks Allan - thatís good information.

      David

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        #4
        Iíve just fitted Opentracker perches as an alternative to rubber replacements and they are night and day to the action of the suspension. Worth looking at if not a tad pricey... I think worth it.
        1966 Mustang GT Coupe A Code 289 4V. Guardsman Blue with Diamond White stripes. 15" TT D wheels with BFG 215/60/15F 225/60/15R.


        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOltx...e_gdata_player
        If it aint broke...Fix it till it is!!

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          #5
          Hi Mixster - yes I read your thread and it sounds like you made some good improvements.

          While I don't need to keep my car 100% stock, I really want to maintain the character of the car 'as-built', or at least with only 'day-two' period correct modifications. It only ever gets mild to moderate road use so serious mods are not going to add much for me.

          I think I'll go for full stock rubber everywhere, but I still haven't bottomed out the question of the lower control arm inner bushings. They must be replaceable as you can buy the parts, but I haven't seen a clear explanation about the best way to fit them. I'll keep searching... :-)

          Thanks

          David

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            #6
            I installed poly then switched back to rubber because of squeaks and two broken strut rods on my Mach 1. After switching to rubber there was no perceivable difference between the new rubber and the poly bushes.

            Best handling mod you can do is install simply a larger front sway bar.
            Black 1985 GT, 408w, high 10's
            Red 1988 Coupe, 5.0, Survivor car
            Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
            Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
            White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI

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              #7
              Yes I was a bit worried about the squeaking

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                #8
                Changing the LCA inner bushes is tricky to do without ruining the arm, you need to support the arm well when pressing out the old bush. If you do not support in between the two skins the arm will collapse and buckle.
                Factory control arms are worth keeping if the outer ball joints are in good shape, I recall Mixster having issues with new Scott Drake LCA''s.
                I bought some assembly line arms for my car and removed the repro ones and re bushed the OEM items successfully.
                sigpic
                You can never have enough black under the hood.

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                  #9
                  Hi David
                  I am afraid cant help with your technical questions
                  I would be interested to hear or see how you get on with the Shelby drop
                  Give me a call if you need a hand ,with making tea or sweeping up

                  Gerry

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by skidado View Post

                    I think I'll go for full stock rubber everywhere, but I still haven't bottomed out the question of the lower control arm inner bushings. They must be replaceable as you can buy the parts, but I haven't seen a clear explanation about the best way to fit them. I'll keep searching... :-)
                    I had a look for these inner bushes some time ago but couldn't find them. Would you point me at the supplier of these please.

                    As for pushing out metalastic bushes it can be done with a press or a bit of studding and some nuts. For a press you could use a bit of rod but you would need a tube for studding..Either way you need it to be about 10-15 thou of an inch under the outside diameter of the bush. It is then possible to push, or pull with studding on this outside metal part of the bush. You must also support the arm in a way that it won't bend or collapse. Sometimes you can be lucky and find a socket of the right diameter but if you have access to a lathe then it is easy to turn up an extraction tube or bar. I am sure that the original arms are thicker than repop ones or at least better steel so if you can do it then its worth it to keep original parts.
                    Allan

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                      #11
                      Allan - there appears to be several sources of these but here is one -
                      https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k8132

                      hope this helps

                      David

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I am afraid cant help with your technical questions
                        I would be interested to hear or see how you get on with the Shelby drop
                        Give me a call if you need a hand ,with making tea or sweeping up


                        Hi Gerry - thanks for the offer! Tea always welcome.

                        However itís likely I will be doing this at the workshop I manage in Basildon to give the guys something to do during our quiet period leading up to Christmas.

                        Happy to discuss the shelby drop once itís done.

                        David

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