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    Headlight flickering

    I noticed at the weekend that when on high beam my headlights were flickering on and off. This was not a high-frequency flicker like with a loose connection, but more like random flashing. Also, it didn't seem to happen when on dipped beam (although I didn't get a chance to test this again).

    I understand this could be something to do with the headlight switch thermal cut-out which starts to misbehave when the switch is old. Does anyone know if there is a way to repair the old switch rather than replace the switch with a new one?

    Many thanks

    David

    #2
    Have you got Halogens fitted David or the old sealed beam units? If Halogens are they running through a relay rather than full power through the switch.It might even be worthwhile fitting relays if sealed beam units are fitted so as not to put full load through the old switch and wiring.

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      #3
      Iím running sealed beam units. Iím trying to keep the car as original as is practical so adding relays and non-standard wiring would not be my first choice.

      Having researched this a bit further Iím surprised no-one has come up with a way to repair the old light switch if itís just the thermal cutout breaking down.

      David

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        #4
        Change the switch, it will solve the issue
        Please visit our Classic Mustang for sale site: www.classicamericancarsales.co.uk
        We stock a large selection of freshly imported Classic 1960s Mustangs. Fastbacks, Convertibles and Coupes. Cars are in stock in the Southeast of England with more shipping from the USA at all times. Other interesting American cars also stocked. CSRP disk brake setups sold

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          #5
          As Peter says it could well be the switch even with the original sealed beams. Maybe the thermal cutout in the switch is getting a bit dodgy. Alternatively, if its doing it with the engine running it could be the alternator regulator. Do the lights flicker when the engine is switched off?
          Allan

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            #6
            It seems to happen only when the high beams are on, not with just dipped beam so I suspect itís a current draw issue. So itís almost certainly the switch.

            I can replace it, but Iíd rather repair it if possible but I canít find any information about this on the internet.

            A new switch is cheap and easy to change, but whereís the fun in that!?

            David

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              #7
              I changed my switch soon after getting my car. It was cheap enough, and simple enough to fit. When researching prior to the swap, I noted that these switches do have a limited lifespan...from new....so I can expect to replace the switch again in the future. Not just a Mustang thing, either.

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                #8
                I always struggle to get the switch pull knob assembly out. The button you need to press is a thumb killer. You need to put the pull knob in a specific location then push the button. It never comes straight out for me but you may have better luck than me
                Please visit our Classic Mustang for sale site: www.classicamericancarsales.co.uk
                We stock a large selection of freshly imported Classic 1960s Mustangs. Fastbacks, Convertibles and Coupes. Cars are in stock in the Southeast of England with more shipping from the USA at all times. Other interesting American cars also stocked. CSRP disk brake setups sold

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                  #9
                  It is worth checking the plug connection to your high beam switch to make sure it is not loose. Unlikely to be this but do check it before doing anything else. Particularly as you only experience the problem with the high beams.
                  We never seem to have enough time to "do it right". But we always seem to have enough time to "do it again"!

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                    #10
                    Yes, switch for sure. Had this once on ours years ago, switch kept jumping out at ever decreasing intervals. Better on dip for a while, as you say, but had to finish the journey on the foglights. Switch renewed and no probs since.

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                      #11
                      Ok I think I'll pull the old switch out and have a look at it to see if it can be repaired in some way and if not I'll just replace it.

                      I have read that there are contact points somewhere in the switch assembly that open when they get too warm. If this is the case it might just be a problem with dirt or corrosion on the points which can be cleaned up. However I strongly suspect that the thermal cut-out is some sort of electronic gizmo in which case a new switch is the answer.

                      Thanks for your help with this.

                      David

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                        #12
                        I believe these cars can display two kinds of issue's, one is a pulsing of the lights and the second is the lights actually going on and off.
                        My car used to suffer from pulsing lights, particularly at idle. This was the voltage regulator clicking in and out, I replaced the OEM regulator with a solid state one and it did exactly the same, so I went back to OEM.

                        I sourced a NOS headlight switch in an effort to improve it, but it stayed the same. At the time the repro switches were poor quality and NOS were recommended, I do not know the state of play now.

                        My car had the pulsing lights through my ownership, I viewed it as a character enhancement
                        sigpic
                        You can never have enough black under the hood.

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                          #13
                          Have used this link before on this forum. It may be helpful here...

                          http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t...light-switches
                          We never seem to have enough time to "do it right". But we always seem to have enough time to "do it again"!

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                            #14
                            Thanks JCMaunder - I did find that article last night and itís the only one Iíve found that shows how the switch works.

                            it looks like I can take the switch apart and check resistances across the various contacts and then I will clean the contacts and see if it makes any difference.

                            thanks for everyoneís support with this. Iíll let you know how I get on.

                            David

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Is it worth dismantling?

                              Can be had through your letterbox for under 30 quid from RockAuto [Aertex]...or even less. Motorcraft item costs more...or there's a Scott Drake item for around 36 quids, plus postage, from MM in the UK?

                              Like darning Asda socks...why bother?

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