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Engine crossmember and master cylinder upgrade

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  • pmustang
    replied
    Just get a CSRP kit containing the spindles you want, Selling the 68 spindles should be super easy. Tasty parts.

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  • Chris 66
    replied
    Thanks Peter.

    My car is auto so have the freedom of choice here. Either way I need to replace the spindles and sell the 68 ones. Hopefully this will help towards to costs, as what was supposed to be replacing the discs and pads and turned into a far more expensive job!

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  • pmustang
    replied
    Hello.

    If you car is a manual trans the decision is made, you can only get CSRP manual disk brakes for the front. The CSRP kits work with most 14 inch stock wheels as well. I would sell your 68 spindles and get a CSRP kit with spindles or buy 65/66 spindles.

    Good thing about CSRP is that if you go for a manual kit you can later order the booster kit and make it a power kit.

    Cheers. Peter

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  • Chris 66
    replied
    Thanks both for your advice. I probably should learn to do some welding......

    In terms of the brakes I actually have 68 spindles and discs on my 66 which means the geometry is all wrong and I am currently deciding on the best option to remedy this. I have been speaking to Dennis at CSRP about the options who has also been really helpful. I have 14" wheels so slightly limited, but I have no plans to change these. My main debate is whether to go for manual or power brakes. I don't find the manual brakes that bad at all and to be fair and this is marginally winning at the moment.

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  • pmustang
    replied
    Chockostang who is the master of PAS in the stated when asked about missing captive nuts for a PAS ram said to cut a hole in the side of the frame and insert a nut

    I think it would work fine for this as well and you could weld a plate right over the whole. Seems sometimes the easy way is the right way if that makes sense

    I purchased really neat engine Xmembers from a guy called Zray in the USA that have a jacking pad welded to them for my personal cars. I have never installed them so can post a photo at some point when I am at the shop. They are fairly expensive to send here with purchase but you sure could try something similar or purchase/import from him using STS imports. the ones Zray sells are really nice quality

    if you are considering disk brakes I would not buy a master as you can get kits with master cyls included and it’s possible you install a manual master cyl now and it end up incompatible with a power brake system if you install one later

    Note: I sell single to dual master cyl conversion kits with one installed on my original 1966 Shelby GT350 and also sell power disk brake conversions from CSRP for the front brakes on 65-69 Mustangs with a V8, Note most disk brake conversion companies do not sell a power kit for 65/66 with Manual trans. Something to do with the booster interfering with the Z bar. Manual front disk brakes for those applications
    Last edited by pmustang; 08-08-2020, 11:49 AM.

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  • Sawyles
    replied
    Something that’s worth learning to do when own an old classic it’s not that expensive to get started just practice practice practise! I work not far from you in Northampton town

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  • Chris 66
    replied
    Thanks. I think I will start by sourcing an original and go from there. Will need to find a friend with a welder though........

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  • Sawyles
    replied
    Google the boss 302 chassis mod pdf shows you how to make a mod to the factory one. I have a pdf if you can’t find it. It involves welding a couple of plates to the standard one

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  • Chris 66
    replied
    Thanks. Some good ideas there, but probably won't opt for cutting the side of the frame tbh. I saw these one of these crossmembers, but seemed a bit expensive think they were about $230, the standard one seems is round about $60.I might have another search to see what else is out there.

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  • Sawyles
    replied
    Hi
    Mine came exactly the same no crossmember and one captive/welded nut missing, I picked up a second hand crossmember but I haven’t got round to fitting it as I’m looking at either buying or making one that ties in the lower arm mounts, check out ‘competition crossmembers’ for 65 or ‘boss style’ there’s a few out there.

    As for the missing nut there’s a few ways ( of which I’ve tried none on the car yet)
    1: cut the side of the frame and weld a nut back in ( must be an easier way)
    2 : use a ‘rivenut’ I’ve done some tests with these out of the car and they more than happily take the torque needed for the crossmember bolts
    3: see the attached pic I got these off a guy in the states Pacific Thunder engineering, they’re for early falcons that didn’t have the crossmember you feed it through the hole and pull it back with threaded wire


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  • Chris 66
    started a topic Engine crossmember and master cylinder upgrade

    Engine crossmember and master cylinder upgrade

    Hi, I have a couple of queries I am hoping for a bit of help with.

    Currently I have no engine cross member (think it must have been like it for years) and looking on various websites there appears to be bespoke bolts that are needed for this. Therefore should there be a nut welded to the inside of the chassis rail for these to go into? I am assuming so, but I don't seem to have these. One side seems to have a perfect round hole where I think this would go and the other side looks like there was something there but hard to tell at the moment if a bolt has snapped off potentially where it should be.

    Also I need to upgrade to a dual bowl master cylinder and wondered if there are any recommendations product wise before I purchase one. Still also debating whether to do the further upgrade to power brakes, so if there is any experience on whether this is worth doing that would be great, as the manual brakes don't seem that bad compared to other cars I have driven in the past that have not been assisted.

    Thanks.
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