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    Heater Core Bypass

    Hi Guys,

    I don't think I've ever used the heater in my 68 302 and yet it has betrayed me! Since I rarely have passengers in the car, I didn't realise that the passenger footwell has been slowly filling with water. Not much, a couple of pints.

    The neck on the heater box where you attach the drain pipe had sheared off. I know everyone knows what heater pipes look like but here's a couple of photos anyway.

    Is it normal for that amount of coolant to drain from the heater? The drain pipe is just that right, not a return? I noticed that the rad seemed now the last couple of times I've driven it and it seems like a lot of water to be escaping from the heater.

    The other question is, is it easy to bypass the heater core since I don't use it?

    Thanks in advance, I hope everyone is still keeping safe.

    Kyle





    Here at Cali Classics, we will soon be offering a range of products for your classic Mustang. We have our own '68 California Special showcase vehicle so please stay tuned for some juicy photos & our first product release.

    #2
    very simple, undo the clip and pull either of the engine side hoses off, cut the remaining one near the firewall and connect it to that position. Then pray for a mild winter and get a rag handy to demist!

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      #3
      That is plumbed into your entire heating and cooling system so plenty of water to leak out, Check your rad level

      also, if you had more than a damp patch on the carpet, you need to pull the carpet on that side or you will have water sitting in there forever rusting your floor, torque box and firewall. Don't believe me, I just replaced exactly those items on a mint original floor 68, Well over a grand in repairs plus metal. Leaky heater did that, as the cowl was perfect.
      Please visit our Classic Mustang for sale site: www.classicamericancarsales.co.uk
      We stock a large selection of freshly imported Classic 1960s Mustangs. Fastbacks, Convertibles and Coupes. Cars are in stock in the Southeast of England with more shipping from the USA at all times. Other interesting American cars also stocked. CSRP disk brake setups sold

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        #4
        The heater core is not difficult to replace. Its an easy bypass then you can replace the core at your leisure.

        Comment


          #5
          The water could be coming from the cooling system or you may have had some water come in from the scuttle vent First off check the water to see if it has any antifreeze with it (assuming you have antifreeze in the cooling water).

          As said its dead easy to take the heater out and replace the matrix. I would use an aluminium one they seem to flow better and give out more heat. At the same time buy a seal kit for the heater flaps and you will have a useful heater for demisting and drying out your car. The wet carpet takes months to dry and causes misting up all the time - a real pain.
          Allan

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            #6
            For the carpets, I use an ''outdoors/workshop'' vacuum cleaner [from Screwfix, they were on offer!]....which can also suck up water. Main problem might be the 'underfelt' rather than the carpet itself...suck up as much water as possible..it's amazing how much a vacuum cleaner can remove.

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              #7
              Suck up the water with a vacuum as Alastair says then buy a couple of silica gel cushions from Halfords and lay them on the carpet for 24 hours then dry them off and repeat until the carpet is dry. I also put them in the car in winter. It helps keep the damp out of the interior.
              Allan

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                #8
                You can get a new core from Rockauto, mine was 38.93 delivered from the US to the UK in about 4 days inc shipping and tax, worth replacing it for the demist function that will come in handy one day.

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                  #9
                  To add to Allan's advice...I would avoid those moisture removal bags sold by the bigger classic [ AKA, old] car spares places, that use diatomaceous earth in a bag. They're fine for the first winter....and need serious drying out...but if forgotten about, the bag material rots & splits, spilling annoying soil all over the place. Guess how I know? Dumping it on the flower beds doesn't work too well either....despite it having 'earth' on the label...

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by alastairq View Post
                    To add to Allan's advice...I would avoid those moisture removal bags sold by the bigger classic [ AKA, old] car spares places, that use diatomaceous earth in a bag. They're fine for the first winter....and need serious drying out...but if forgotten about, the bag material rots & splits, spilling annoying soil all over the place. Guess how I know? Dumping it on the flower beds doesn't work too well either....despite it having 'earth' on the label...
                    The ones I have definitely have some form of small crystals in them. One side of the cushion is a plastic material and the other a cloth, it absorbs moisture through the cloth side. They need to be stored in a dry place otherwise they will be wet and not work. I keep them in our airing cupboard by the hot tank - we still have one!! This said I can see how the cloth side of the cushion could easily rot and split.
                    Allan

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by ALLAN R View Post

                      The ones I have definitely have some form of small crystals in them. One side of the cushion is a plastic material and the other a cloth, it absorbs moisture through the cloth side. They need to be stored in a dry place otherwise they will be wet and not work. I keep them in our airing cupboard by the hot tank - we still have one!! This said I can see how the cloth side of the cushion could easily rot and split.
                      Serves me right for succumbing to an ''offer''...from Frosts....My Mustang lives outdoors, more or less under a carport....those bags did indeed 'remove' moisture from inside, especially over the wintertime.....I also got one for a good chum of mine...I do hope his haven't split? Otherwise it's going to be a lonely old age for me!!

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                        #12
                        I’ve just started the same job myself today, the heater assembly didn’t take long to remove. The Rockauto site looks great, shipping is so much cheaper than CJPony, in fact even UK suppliers are expensive for shipment.

                        good luck with it,


                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Crozerstang View Post
                          I’ve just started the same job myself today, the heater assembly didn’t take long to remove. The Rockauto site looks great, shipping is so much cheaper than CJPony, in fact even UK suppliers are expensive for shipment.

                          good luck with it,

                          With the heater out like that I would strongly recommend replacing the matrix and buying a heater seal kit with all the foam seals. If you buy a matrix I think the newer aluminium ones give more heat and better for demisting. On the motor be careful if you want to remove the fan. Its quite delicate and also mine was solid on the motor shaft. In the end I left it where it was and carefully oiled the motor bearing with an oil can. Its got one of those oilyte bearing in it and mine ran much quieter after some oil. These bearing slowly absorb the oil so keep it wet with oil for some time.
                          Allan

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                            #14
                            Thanks Alan good advice, my coolant level had dropped and I discovered it dripping out of the bottom of heater box, so I’m expecting to find the matrix leaking when I separate the 2 halves of the casing. The fan is a bit noisy so I’ll have a go at lubricating as you had done. I checked the thermostat while I was on and noticed the water pump bypass was blocked, it’s now cleared. Putting the t-stat housing back on was a real pain as there was poor access behind the water pump and the distributor vacuum advance was in the way, probably easier to remove the vacuum advance for that job?

                            cheers, Lee

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                              #15
                              The heater matrix has probably had it. They can leak around the inlet and outlet pipes. Also the small tubes in them get blocked up so their heating capacity reduces. If you had a blocked bypass tube on the thermostat I guess there is a fair bit of crud in the system. This has probably been caused through the use of plain water in the cooling system. I would give it a good flushing out before installing your new heater matrix.
                              Allan

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