1966 289 v8 2 barrel 2100 carb

[Boakesy]

can anyone point me in direction of a new 2100 carb for a 66. sorry am a bit of a novice. I can find loads on ebay but seem to specify 68 onwards. the pictures look very similar but not identical.


some pictures...

the only 1 I can find in UK is

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-new....m46890.l49292


there seem to be many but says this...

Ford Mustang 1968~1973 Engine 289 Cu, 302 Cu, 351 Cu

I cannot find any that are for a 66...

Thanks

[ALLAN R]

I am not sure with 2 barrel carbs but get the numbers off yours and see if you can ask the sellers to give you the number of the carbs they are selling to compare. I wouldn't have thought there would be much difference in a carb for a 302 over a 289. Also search on line to see if there is a difference in CFM for the 289 versus the 302/351, this would point to different venturi sizes in the carb.

[66coop]

Have you put a wanted ad on here for a good used one?

I had a 2-barrel Holley on the 302 in my van and I could never get it to run right, saw an advert on here for a £20 Autolite, put it on and it ran like a sewing machine..!

[INDY 500]

The carb you have looks to be the original, have you considered a rebuild kit, theres really not a lot to them? Looks like the accelerater pump diaphragm on the front may already have been off and somebody tried to reseal it with silicone or similar? The carb you showed on ebay looks similar but looks like a 2150 off a later (70's) car and has electric choke. Yours uses the heat from the exhaust manifold to take the choke off. As the engine warms up, heat comes from the manifold via the tube screwed under the choke housing. Are you having running difficulties with the car at present? Paul.

[Boakesy]

thanks Paul

petrol is leaking from the front accelerator pump. I ordered a walker kit as plan A as assume is the diaphragm but I am totally new 2 this mechanically... so will be nervy. so as plan B wanted to research a new unit... and could not find one in UK for a 66.

[Boakesy]

The carb you have looks to be the original, have you considered a rebuild kit, theres really not a lot to them? Looks like the accelerater pump diaphragm on the front may already have been off and somebody tried to reseal it with silicone or similar? The carb you showed on ebay looks similar but looks like a 2150 off a later (70's) car and has electric choke. Yours uses the heat from the exhaust manifold to take the choke off. As the engine warms up, heat comes from the manifold via the tube screwed under the choke housing. Are you having running difficulties with the car at present? Paul.

also I did not notice the sealant... obviously I have allot to learn.

[alastairq]

Those [Chinese] eBay carbs look good. Certainly cheap enough? But....[as the eBay blurb warns?] on receipt, they need completely stripping down, and all the passageways and drilling need to be cleared out. There is also likely to be casting flash which also needs removing. Blanking plugs might need taking out to gain access inside the passageways, then replaced [using new plugs?].

I suspect some of the cheapness comes form the items not being cleaned out or prepped at all?

A purchaser may be lucky and find everything as it should be....but I suspect a lot of folk will unbox, admire, bolt on, then wonder why nothing works?

I have experience of an oil pump from a similar source....Priced just right [for a State pensioner!!], on receipt I stripped it down and discovered the insides caked with the remains of casting sand. Took quite a bit of cleaning out, as the sand was hard stuff to remove, but not an ideal additive to one's oil system!
Anyway, at least the vendor does warn potential buyers?

For a carb, have you tried looking at Rock Auto's listings?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...arburetor,5904

[ALLAN R]

As Alistairq warns stay away from the cheap chinese carbs. I have seen one fitted on a Beetle (obviously a varient for the Beetle) but it was absolute cr@p. The throttle shaft was tight in the bore, flash and swarf as mentioned. I spent a day fettling it and the car still didn't run very cleanly. Go with a re-build kit, they are not that complicated. Set yourself up on a nice clean well lit bench, take lots of photos with the phone and go slowly. If you get stuck I am sure we can help.

To be honest, if you are not into originality and not too cash strapped, and were going for a replacement I would go for a 4bbl carb with an aftermarket inlet manifold. It would be quite a big improvement.

[Boakesy]

Those [Chinese] eBay carbs look good. Certainly cheap enough? But....[as the eBay blurb warns?] on receipt, they need completely stripping down, and all the passageways and drilling need to be cleared out. There is also likely to be casting flash which also needs removing. Blanking plugs might need taking out to gain access inside the passageways, then replaced [using new plugs?].

I suspect some of the cheapness comes form the items not being cleaned out or prepped at all?

A purchaser may be lucky and find everything as it should be....but I suspect a lot of folk will unbox, admire, bolt on, then wonder why nothing works?

I have experience of an oil pump from a similar source....Priced just right [for a State pensioner!!], on receipt I stripped it down and discovered the insides caked with the remains of casting sand. Took quite a bit of cleaning out, as the sand was hard stuff to remove, but not an ideal additive to one's oil system!
Anyway, at least the vendor does warn potential buyers?

For a carb, have you tried looking at Rock Auto's listings?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...arburetor,5904

Great website and certainly the best option But my lack of knowledge means I am unsure what I actually need as a base replacement... does anyone have any pointers on what will work as a straight swap?

[Boakesy]

As Alistairq warns stay away from the cheap chinese carbs. I have seen one fitted on a Beetle (obviously a varient for the Beetle) but it was absolute cr@p. The throttle shaft was tight in the bore, flash and swarf as mentioned. I spent a day fettling it and the car still didn't run very cleanly. Go with a re-build kit, they are not that complicated. Set yourself up on a nice clean well lit bench, take lots of photos with the phone and go slowly. If you get stuck I am sure we can help.

To be honest, if you are not into originality and not too cash strapped, and were going for a replacement I would go for a 4bbl carb with an aftermarket inlet manifold. It would be quite a big improvement.

Great advice but as completely new to this... looking at baby steps... interior and a few minor mechanical to start.

[ALLAN R]

Great advice but as completely new to this... looking at baby steps... interior and a few minor mechanical to start.

Fortunately I learnt to work on cars and engines with my father. The classic 1950's Mustangs are essentially very simple cars so ideal to learn on. Also all the parts are pretty readily available and not stupid prices. As said just watch the quality of repop stuff. All the interior stuff is available and quite easy to replace.

[Boakesy]

Fortunately I learnt to work on cars and engines with my father. The classic 1950's Mustangs are essentially very simple cars so ideal to learn on. Also all the parts are pretty readily available and not stupid prices. As said just watch the quality of repop stuff. All the interior stuff is available and quite easy to replace.

thanks and suspect I will pop up hear with silly questions... appreciate your advice

[71mach1mart]

Try Rockauto online they have re manufactured ones for sale , i bought a Motorcraft 2100 for my 351c 2v and it bolted straight on, last summer.
It just needed the air mixture screws adjusting with a vacuum gauge and all was good.
They are genuine ford carbs, just fitted with all the new jets, bushes etc and cost about £230 with postage if i remember correctly and arrive in a week or less.
Very good service and if you send yours back they give you a slight refund, although i kept mine for spare parts.