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    ATF type for Automatic

    Am I correct in assuming that Auto Tans fluid (ATF) for the stock automatic on my 67 coupe would be a type F not a synthetic type? Does anyone recommend and make?

    #2
    Any Type F should do the job. I've never bothered about make.
    Allan

    Comment


      #3

      My power steering has a nuisance leak...despite my having replaced seals, etc...[so will dismantle it yet again!]..

      After poking around tinternet for the cheapest option, I've settled on the company below, via ebay.

      https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254912179577

      I don't know if there are cheaper suppliers out there...I run my car as cheaply as possible!

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by alastairq View Post
        My power steering has a nuisance leak...despite my having replaced seals, etc...[so will dismantle it yet again!]..

        After poking around tinternet for the cheapest option, I've settled on the company below, via ebay.

        https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254912179577

        I don't know if there are cheaper suppliers out there...I run my car as cheaply as possible!
        This is what I use at the moment. Seems fine.

        I have just replaced the power steering hoses and the pump. I had a hose burst on the drive whilst maneuvering to get in the garage. The pump was whining badly and has been on the car since I bought it in 1992 so probably time to change it. The usual source of leaks is the control valve.
        Allan

        Comment


          #5
          Yes...I too had a hose burst a while ago, whilst waiting in McDonald's drive-thru!! They provide good cup holders, but are a pain when ordering & paying in a LHD car!
          Anyway, new hoses were ordered [RockAuto, bless 'em]...and fitted, but the leaks were obvious when parked.
          I purchased a [Gates?] gasket kit for both ram and control valve...very easy to work on, is a '67, as the control valve simply unscrews from the centre link...unlike earlier cars where the whole link has to come out...meaning more ball joints to split!

          Oddly, there were two sizes of control valve seals....I suppose there were two diameters used? Anyway, I think my main issue was, the pressure blow-off shuttle [small shuttle on the top of the valve] was pretty much seized. I unstuck it [to install replacement rubbers], but I think it currently leaks from the end cap gasket. This, despite my checking it for flatness!! Probably didn't leak from there before I split it down?
          Now I have a peculiar action when turning right [at roundabouts...mostly]...there seems to be a bit of resistance at one point, which suddenly 'gives'...the effect is like that of when a front wheel suddenly breaks away? Doesn't happen every time, but the sudden little bit of 'give ' is enough to make the old ticker jump, as if a patch of diesel has been hit?
          Cannot see anything amiss when both front wheels lifted off the ground [two jacks, to keep compression on the suspension], no hoses 'catching'...nothing getting 'caught', so it might be something to do with the new rubbers in the control valve?

          I know the leaks from the PS are common trait of these Fords...[like leaky screen?]..A common fix is to revert back to manual steering...[According to Mustang Maniacs?]
          That would need [IIRC?] a new link to replace the control valve, to connect the drop arm to the centre link. [I presume there's no difference in strength? There being an extra hole in the PS version.]...plus a new idler arm [manual version] which I presume is stronger than the PS arm?
          All told, around 550 of winter-heating-allowance to convert.,,about the same amount of pension-quids as a replacement control valve [which probably doesn't leak, for a year or two?]

          Those control valve-to-ram hoses are a convoluted pair of so & so's, aren't they?
          Last edited by alastairq; 30-01-2023, 04:06 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by alastairq View Post
            Yes...I too had a hose burst a while ago, whilst waiting in McDonald's drive-thru!! They provide good cup holders, but are a pain when ordering & paying in a LHD car!
            Anyway, new hoses were ordered [RockAuto, bless 'em]...and fitted, but the leaks were obvious when parked.
            I purchased a [Gates?] gasket kit for both ram and control valve...very easy to work on, is a '67, as the control valve simply unscrews from the centre link...unlike earlier cars where the whole link has to come out...meaning more ball joints to split!

            Oddly, there were two sizes of control valve seals....I suppose there were two diameters used? Anyway, I think my main issue was, the pressure blow-off shuttle [small shuttle on the top of the valve] was pretty much seized. I unstuck it [to install replacement rubbers], but I think it currently leaks from the end cap gasket. This, despite my checking it for flatness!! Probably didn't leak from there before I split it down?
            Now I have a peculiar action when turning right [at roundabouts...mostly]...there seems to be a bit of resistance at one point, which suddenly 'gives'...the effect is like that of when a front wheel suddenly breaks away? Doesn't happen every time, but the sudden little bit of 'give ' is enough to make the old ticker jump, as if a patch of diesel has been hit?
            Cannot see anything amiss when both front wheels lifted off the ground [two jacks, to keep compression on the suspension], no hoses 'catching'...nothing getting 'caught', so it might be something to do with the new rubbers in the control valve?

            I know the leaks from the PS are common trait of these Fords...[like leaky screen?]..A common fix is to revert back to manual steering...[According to Mustang Maniacs?]
            That would need [IIRC?] a new link to replace the control valve, to connect the drop arm to the centre link. [I presume there's no difference in strength? There being an extra hole in the PS version.]...plus a new idler arm [manual version] which I presume is stronger than the PS arm?
            All told, around 550 of winter-heating-allowance to convert.,,about the same amount of pension-quids as a replacement control valve [which probably doesn't leak, for a year or two?]

            Those control valve-to-ram hoses are a convoluted pair of so & so's, aren't they?
            As you say the control valve on the 65/66 is part of the central link but can be removed on the 67. Is there any adjustment between the valve and steering arm? Also on the 65 there is a nut and return spring on the shuttle valve. I can't remember if that has an adjustment sequence. its a long time ago since I did the valve. Also once I refilled the system with a modern power steering oil and it didn't like that at all and felt funny. Like a vibration from the pump coming through the steering wheel. I went back to AFT type F and no more issues.
            Allan

            Comment

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