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Thread: Proud New Owner - 67 Coupe

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by makse View Post
    I'll get a pic of a '65 without headliner later (should be the same for a 66) and you can tell me where you are referring to
    Ok great. Ill get out and grab some pics of how i did my belts. Its my birthday so still in my birthday suit...

  2. #17
    MOCGB Paid Member makse's Avatar
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    I have managed to find a pic online.

    I recall that the hole circled is not threaded and think it would be difficult to get a plate behind for the seatbelt to attach to.

    Screen Shot 2018-05-22 at 09.39.01.jpg

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by makse View Post
    I have managed to find a pic online.

    I recall that the hole circled is not threaded and think it would be difficult to get a plate behind for the seatbelt to attach to.

    Screen Shot 2018-05-22 at 09.39.01.jpg
    If you have a hole your halfway there. A little ahead of that should be another slot. I got a backing plate with nut. Had to cut 2 corners a little but put some plumbers solder wire through it, fed it in. V tight squeeze as only trimmed corners bare minimum. Got an alan key in it, pulled solder out, managed to swop alan key for bolt and hanger. Sounds simple after the struggle. 🤣

  4. #19
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    I pondered over the structural implications of my method regarding safety. Its very solid but after considering welding the plate behind, i settled on if an impact is enough to rip the backing plate out then a weld isnt going to save anyone.

  5. #20
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    [QUOTE=makse;749366]I have managed to find a pic online.

    I recall that the hole circled is not threaded and think it would be difficult to get a plate behind for the seatbelt to attach to.

    . i think mustangs had all 68's with threaded backing plates already in place welded... 67's had the holes drilled in position but no backig plates..... and 66 back didnt have aliwances at all. To cut a slot and drill a hole to install is obviously possible but safety and functionality must be assessed competantly.... or with enough beer 🙈

  6. #21
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    Got my finger on where the slot is
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #22
    MOCGB Paid Member makse's Avatar
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    There is no slot in a 65/66. Don't really want to be cutting a slot in that area unless it's suppose to be there. Will have a better look this evening when I get to the unit

    I have used similar backing plates with nuts on the back for the rear seat seatbelts, where they go through the rear panel. Welded them on the underside of the car, and then painted/coated, so it'll be a lot easier to install the lap belts as a one man job

  8. #23
    MOCGB Paid Member makse's Avatar
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    Would also need to see if the 3 point belts have enough for the mount to be higher up.

  9. #24
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    Its definately different to mine.


    Ive done some digging. Take a look at this, fella does a good write up for the earlier mustang. 😊

    https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...for-coupe.html

  10. #25
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    4 m belt was perfect for me.

  11. #26
    MOCGB Paid Member makse's Avatar
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    That find was good. I think have the extended top mount (sash as they call it) brings the belt to a better angle across the shoulder when mounted from the roof.

    Just need to find the appropriate belts with that extra top mount here in the UK. I did find a company that can alter what I already have, just to replace the webbing is 60 each.

  12. #27
    MOCGB Paid Member makse's Avatar
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    checked mine last night and found that that the roof reinforcement is actually an enclosed box section so no way of getting behind the hole without doing some cutting. Could make a U shaped cut, prise the metal apart and slide a plate behind and then weld it back up. But that area is two layers of metal so to get a good weld penetration to both layers could be tricky.

    What I did find is that a 7/16 UNF bolt will thread into the hole nicely and was able to yank and pull on the seatbelt and it held solid but not sure if there is enough thread contact though

    Will have another look and decide what to do

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by makse View Post
    checked mine last night and found that that the roof reinforcement is actually an enclosed box section so no way of getting behind the hole without doing some cutting. Could make a U shaped cut, prise the metal apart and slide a plate behind and then weld it back up. But that area is two layers of metal so to get a good weld penetration to both layers could be tricky.

    What I did find is that a 7/16 UNF bolt will thread into the hole nicely and was able to yank and pull on the seatbelt and it held solid but not sure if there is enough thread contact though

    Will have another look and decide what to do
    Hope you can find a solution that your happy with. Safety first, id be looking at a backing plate behind that skin or maybe welded to the front.... rather have the plate behind though.... my weldings not seatbelt safety quality lol the joy of different models...

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